Cook in the Moment: Rouille with Frites

Rouille with Frites (c)2012

Garlic week at la Domestique has certainly been, well, pungent. I poured through my cookbook collection looking for fresh and interesting recipes with the goal of truly celebrating this stinky bulb in all its glory. Each day the husband arrived home from work to be greeted at the door not by my smiling face, but by the heady aroma of garlic wafting from the kitchen as I tested recipes. This morning I woke up with the taste of garlic still lingering on my palate. You can probably smell me coming a mile away. That’s ok with me. I’ve long ago surrendered to the idea that my perfume is not Chanel No. 5, rather, it’s the story of time spent in my favorite place – the kitchen. Some days it’s garlic, others cinnamon, always memorable and unmistakably me.

It’s almost impossible to imagine NOT cooking with garlic. A crushed garlic clove seems to be the base for just about any savory recipe: soups, stews, pasta sauces, etc. We’re more hesitant to cook recipes calling for raw garlic. Is it because we’ve been turned off by the acidic, bitter flavor of perpetually available garlic in the grocery store? Is it because we’re afraid to be bold, to offend guests with the brashness of raw garlic? Our fear of using aggressive flavors in the kitchen is a metaphor for how we live our lives: trying to be normal, to fit in, to be liked by everyone. In our efforts not to upset the herd we can become blander versions of ourselves, even boring. Listening to The Avett Brothers’ album, Four Thieves Gone, I’m encouraged to live a little bolder when they sing, “Be loud, let your colors show!”


10 Ways Tuesday: Garlic

Roasted Garlic (c)2012

I’ve got creative recipes for cooking with garlic during summer:

1.  Whole Roasted Garlic

Slow-roasting whole garlic bulbs in the oven draws out their inherent sweetness, caramelizing the sugars and infusing the kitchen with their heady aroma. This takes about an hour, and I like to use Ellie Krieger’s method: slice about 1/4 inch from the tops and place them in an oven safe dish, drizzle with olive oil, cover with foil for half the cooking and remove the foil during the last half hour for a bit of caramelization. To serve, allow diners to squeeze the cloves from their skins (there’s something strangely gratifying about this), and spread over grilled bread. In Chez Panisse Vegetables, Alice Waters suggests adding roasted garlic to sauces and soups. It’s also delicious worked into creamy mashed potatoes.

2.  Rouille

You might have heard of aioli, the made-from-scratch mayonnaise composed of smashed garlic cloves, egg yolks, and olive oil? Well, a rouille is aioli’s fiery cousin, a homemade mayonnaise flavored with saffron and red pepper. In France, rouille is a condiment served with the fish stew bouillabaisse, but this week on la Domestique I’ll be whipping up a batch of rouille to accompany homemade french fries. Everyone needs a killer condiment in the recipe arsenal, and a well-made rouille is guaranteed to impress.


Ingredient of the Week: Garlic

Garlic from the Boulder Farmer's Market (c)2012

The season for garlic has arrived, and I’m just as excited to cook with this stinky bulb as I am about the peaches and tomatoes of summer. Did you know garlic has a season? It’s an allium, like chives and onions; a bulb planted in October for harvest the following summer. Those wrinkled, acrid heads of garlic offered in grocery stores during winter are a very sad representation of glorious summer garlic, which is juicy, slightly sweet, and pleasantly pungent – never bitter or acrimonious. The best specimens of mature garlic are harvested throughout summer and early fall. As the weather cools and winter sets in, the precious sugars in the garlic plant are converted for energy, causing the bulbs to taste acidic and increasingly bitter. Enjoy summer garlic while it lasts, using it raw for fresh, piquant flavor, or roasting the heads to amplify their inherent sweetness. Tomorrow is 10 Ways Tuesday, and you’ll find plenty of creative recipes for cooking with garlic during summer here at la Domestique.