La Domestique | Kitchen Pantry Garden

Cook in the Moment: Watermelon Granita with Mint and Lime

By Jess On August 15, 2012 · 8 Comments

Recently, I took on a project for a client needing recipes and photography centered around the Cajun cuisine of Louisiana. Today, I live in Colorado, but I was born and raised in Arkansas, and made many trips through New Orleans en route to our family beach vacations on the shores of the Gulf of Mexico. As a child, I was spellbound by New Orleans. Growing up in the bible belt, I found the culture of New Orleans so different from my own. I sometimes felt like the black sheep of my family, with a tendency to be moody and rebellious. Sarcastic humor was (and still is) my favorite coping mechanism. I appreciated the way New Orleanians embraced both the light and the dark sides of life with their jazz funerals, magical thinking, and revelrous parades. Though they would probably be described as “characters,” I loved Louisiana because the people seemed so real – honest, straightforward, and true to themselves. Years have gone by since my childhood visits to New Orleans, and we’ve both been through a lot. While the city recovered from Hurricane Katrina, I recovered from leukemia. I like to think the ability to laugh when things couldn’t get any worse is what got each of us through.

I left the south 5 years ago, and this freelance assignment – I’m dubbing it the “Louisiana Project” – has brought back a ton of memories. Once a year I return home to Arkansas for a family visit, and it feels as though I’ve been gone a hundred years. It’s funny how time creates nostalgia for the things you used to complain about, isn’t it? I miss the oppressive heat and humidity of summer. We southerners bond over the heat, it’s a source of conversation and camaraderie. As I thought of summertime childhood memories centered around food for the Louisiana Project, watermelon was the first thing that came to mind. You’ll find it served at southern barbecues, and there’s nothing better than an ice-cold slice of crisp and juicy watermelon to quench your thirst. Watermelons can be big and awkward to store for very long, so it’s best to invite all your friends over to help you eat it. I cherish the inherent hospitality of watermelon – how it brings people together. It’s nothin’ fancy, and I like to think of watermelon as a great equalizer – an everyman’s summer treat. Watermelon is just so good and simple.

While it’s hard to come up with the energy to do more than just slice and serve watermelon, I believe this recipe for Watermelon Granita with Mint and Lime is a worthwhile endeavor. A granita is just a fancy way of saying “fruit ice.” Fruit is pureed in the blender with whatever flavorings you desire, then frozen in a shallow tray and stirred with a fork every once in a while to break up the ice. In the end, you’ve got an evenly frozen dessert that can be scraped up into fluffy ice shavings with a fork and served in a chilled bowl. Do as you like, serving it at the slushy less-frozen stage or the completely frozen ice stage. I’ve flavored this watermelon granita with a mint simple syrup, lime zest, and lime juice. You could make it your own by using basil instead of mint, or adding another juicy fruit like strawberries. Watermelon granita tastes best on a blazing hot summer day, shared with good friends and family while commiserating over the heat.

Watermelon Granita with Mint and Lime

Serves 10-12

Watermelon granita is a refreshing frozen ice that’s just the thing for the hottest days of summer. In this recipe, simple syrup infused with mint sweetens the watermelon, while lime juice adds acidity. The beauty of a granita is that no ice cream machine or popsicle making equipment is necessary. Just freeze the pureed watermelon in a shallow container, fluff the ice with a fork, and you’ve got a flavorful frozen treat fit for a crowd.

Ingredients

½ cup sugar
½ cup water
¼ cup fresh mint leaves, plus extra for garnish
1 lime
10 cups cubed seedless watermelon, from 1 miniature watermelon weighing about 7-8 pounds

Make a simple syrup by boiling the water in a small pot. Remove from the heat and whisk in the sugar, stirring until it’s completely dissolved. Add the mint leaves to the syrup and set the pot aside, allowing the syrup to cool completely before straining out the mint leaves. The simple syrup can be made a day in advance and stored in the fridge, or used immediately for the granita.

Grate the lime zest into a small bowl, and then juice the lime into the same bowl. Working in batches, puree the watermelon in a blender until smooth. For each batch, place watermelon cubes, a splash of the lime juice/zest mixture, and a splash of the simple syrup in the blender to evenly distribute the flavorings. Pour the watermelon puree into a 9×13-inch nonreactive, freezer safe baking dish, such as ceramic, enameled cast iron, or glass. Stir with a whisk to evenly combine the watermelon puree, and then place it in the freezer. Every 30 minutes, use a fork to stir the watermelon puree and break up the ice. Freeze until firm, 2-3 hours, and then cover the mixture. Watermelon granita can be made up to 3 days in advance. To serve, use a fork to scrape up the icy granita into fluffy flakes. Garnish with extra mint leaves.

10 Ways Tuesday: Watermelon

By Jess On August 14, 2012 · 14 Comments

I’ve got creative recipes for cooking with watermelon during summer:

1. Watermelon and Tomato Salad

Watermelon and tomato make for a shockingly good combination. Tomatoes have a meaty acidity that balances sweet and crisp slices of watermelon. I like to cut the watermelon into tomato-like shapes and toss it with yellow cherry tomatoes, red onions, and basil. Plenty of red wine vinegar, olive oil, sea salt, and freshly ground black pepper balance the sweet and fruity flavors. Instead of the traditional feta, I switch it up with shavings of semi-soft, nutty sheep’s milk cheese- like Manchego.

2. Pickled Watermelon and Watermelon Rind

David Chang is an advocate for pickling. In the Momofuku cookbook, he writes, Pickling is practical and doesn’t need to be complicated…Pickling can be as easy as making a brine, pouring it over chopped vegetables packed into a container, and waiting the right amount of time to eat them.” Chang includes recipes for both pickled watermelon rind and a quick pickle for the pink watermelon flesh. The pickles can be served on a pickle plate with other pickled veg or incorporated into a meal. At Momofuku, watermelon pickles are served with noodle bowls and braised meat, or in a frisée salad with bacon and a poached egg.

3. Grilled Watermelon & Manouri

The photo of Michael Psilakis’ Grilled Watermelon & Manouri in How To Roast A Lamb is almost irresistible- thick slices of watermelon look steak-like topped with melted and caramelized manouri cheese. Manouri is a semisoft Greek cheese, but you can substitute good Greek feta. Grill-marked watermelon is sweet and juicy. Garnish with a generous sprinkling of mint and dill, and a good drizzle of fine extra-virgin olive oil and aged balsamic.

4. Multi-Colored Melon Salad

During late summer I have a lot of fun combining several varieties of melon in one salad. Use a melon baller to scoop cute little spheres of melon from watermelon, cantaloupe, and honeydew for a rainbow of red, peach, and green colors. Toss the melon balls in lime juice and garnish with herbs for a festive salad platter to feed a crowd. I also like to make this salad, arranging sliced melons on a platter with cucumber, hearts of palm, scallions, and grilled shrimp, then drizzling over a ginger-lime vinaigrette. Watermelon has a unique crisp texture and bright, refreshing flavor that stands out against other intensely floral, honeyed melons.

5. Watermelon Margarita

The dog days of summer were made for margaritas, and watermelon is a fun twist on the usual. I like this Watermelon Margarita recipe from Saveur because it includes instructions for infusing tequila with watermelon over a couple of days for a more deeply flavored drink. Limeade, Cointreau, and crushed ice go into a blender with the watermelon tequila till pureed. Pour into a glass with a salted rim and garnish with a small slice of watermelon. Refreshingly delicious, and it’s pink too!

6. Watermelon Tabbouleh

I think this variation on traditional tomato tabbouleh from Whole Living is a fantastic idea. Quick cooking bulgur wheat is tossed with chopped watermelon, parsley, scallions, and goat cheese, then dressed in a lemon-olive oil vinaigrette. It’s light and fresh- a nice summer lunch.

7. Caramelized Fruit Salad with Yogurt

I always look to Marcus Samuelsson for recipes that take a new approach with familiar ingredients. He’s cookbooks spark fresh inspiration in my kitchen. I found the recipe for Caramelized Fruit Salad with Yogurt in Samuelsson’s New American Table, and learned a new technique for preparing watermelon. Heat a pat of butter in a skillet and toast some spices: chili powder, cinnamon stick, ground cardamom, and fresh vanilla seeds. Toss in cubed watermelon and mango, along with lime zest, honey, and chopped cashews. Once the fruit and nuts are caramelized, transfer to a bowl and stir in sliced avocado and mint. Serve the caramelized fruit salad with yogurt. It’s a whole new way to prepare watermelon.

8. Watermelon Granita

Frozen desserts don’t get easier than granita, or fruit ice. Simply puree the fruit and add flavorings, then freeze in a shallow tray, stirring every thirty minutes to break up ice chunks. After about 3 hours you’ve got a fine frozen ice that can be scooped into chilled bowls or champagne coupes. This week at la Domestique I’ll be sharing my recipe for Watermelon Granita with Lime and Mint. Watermelon makes a flavorful, refreshing, low-calorie dessert that’s the perfect indulgence on the hottest summer day.

9. Watermelon Skewers

For a make-ahead hors d’oeuvres, watermelon can be cut into cubes and placed on a skewer along with briny black olives and ricotta salata cheese. Watermelon, feta, and basil is another delicious option. José Andrés makes a tapas of Tomato and Watermelon Skewers. Take inspiration from this idea and create your own watermelon skewer combo.

10. Watermelon Bruschetta

This beautifully illustrated watermelon bruschetta from The Forest Feast got my wheels turning and now I’m thinking of all sorts of ways to put watermelon on tiny toasts. Erin places slices of ricotta salata on sliced baguette, then tops it with a mix of diced tomatoes and watermelon. I would do diced watermelon with minced red chile and cilantro atop a crisp cracker, or maybe a spoonful of tomato jam and minced watermelon with goat cheese and chives. So fun!

What is your favorite way to cook with watermelon? Share it in the comments section. Click Here.

Ingredient of the Week: Watermelon

By Jess On August 12, 2012 · 2 Comments

I grew up in the soupy heat of southern summers, and though each year takes me farther away from my childhood in Arkansas, biting into a slice of ice-cold, crisp and sweet watermelon brings me right back home. Watermelon is a simple, cheerful fruit, a symbol of the height of summer. A large oblong watermelon, with striped green rind and shockingly pink flesh, is reason enough to gather with friends in an effort to cool down on a breezeless summer day. It’s the simplest, most universal kind of entertaining. All you really need is a knife to divvy up the fruit and you can feed a crowd of hot, thirsty people. Watermelons come in a variety of sizes and shapes, from mini-round varieties weighing less than 5 pounds to huge oblong specimens up to 35 pounds. The rind is either solid green or striped light and dark green, with a flesh that ranges from hot pink to red, orange, or yellow. Seedless watermelons actually do have a few seeds, which tend to be softer, smaller, and edible. This week at la Domestique, you’ll find inspiration for cooking with all parts of the watermelon, from the flesh to the rind and even the seeds.

According to The Produce Bible, watermelons are different from all the other melons (cantaloupe, muskmelon, and honeydew), belonging to the citrullus lanatus group, originating in the Kalahari Desert of Africa. Peak season for watermelon harvest is from mid-June till the end of August. The melons need plenty of space, full sun, and a nutrient-rich soil. Watermelons are known as “heavy feeders” pulling a lot of water and nutrients from the soil. Smaller watermelon varieties can be grown in space-restricted gardens. When selecting a watermelon at the farmer’s market or grocery store, look for a dull (not shiny) skin, and a melon that is heavy for its size. Another sign of ripeness is a hollow thump when the watermelon is slapped. Also, the pale underside where the watermelon rested on the ground may have a yellow tint. The Deluxe Food Lover’s Companion notes that contain a lot of tiny white seeds are immature and not yet ready to eat. Whole watermelon can be kept in the fridge for a couple of days before deteriorating. Cut watermelon dries out rapidly, and will only last a day in the fridge, tightly wrapped in plastic.

Check back here tomorrow for 10 Ways Tuesday, a collection of fun, refreshing watermelon recipes for the heat of summer. Let’s not go back to school just yet, hang on to summer with a slice of sweet, succulent watermelon by the pool.

Do you have a favorite summer memory involving watermelon? Share it in the comments section. Click Here.

Gone on a Holiday

By Jess On August 5, 2012 · 22 Comments

Photo above taken by James Anderson

We’re taking a week off here at la Domestique to go on a holiday, kind of like the French do during the month of August. The husband and I are off to Seattle. If you have any recommendations for restaurants or fun things to do, please do share in the comments section. Follow la Domestique on Facebook, twitter, and instagram for a peek at what we’re up to on the road. We’ll be back next Monday, August 13, with a new ingredient of the week.

Thanks for reading la Domestique, and ciao for now!

Cook in the Moment: Gravlax

By Jess On August 1, 2012 · 6 Comments

Remember when I said I was having a Nordic moment in the kitchen, back in the beginning of June? Well, I guess that moment has turned into a full on obsession that led me to making my own gravlax. In case you missed it, check out my step-by-step gravlax tutorial on Food52. Gravlax is a Scandinavian technique for preserving raw salmon with salt, sugar, and other ingredients for flavor. In its simplest form, the cure is salt, sugar, and dill, but you can get creative with spices like juniper, fennel seeds, and caraway seeds, or layer on grated beets for their earthy flavor and magenta color. A few drops of Aquavit or other clear spirit (gin, schnapps) infuses the salmon with a clean, spiced flavor.

There’s no better time to make gravlax at home than summer, since wild Alaskan salmon is in season from May to September. I used two wild Sockeye fillets because it was within my budget (King was out of my price range), and I like the leaner, clean-tasting flesh with its intense red color. After the pin bones are removed from the flesh and the cure is sprinkled over, the salmon goes in the fridge for a couple of days to do it’s thing (cure). Another great part of making gravlax in the heat of summer is you get to stay cool- no oven, no stove, no grill, no heat!

Once the salmon has finished curing, it’s time to remove the skin and thinly slice the gravlax for serving. Gravlax made at home from fresh wild salmon is a very special thing. Not only does it taste exceptionally good (succulent, clean, herbal, spiced), but there is the added gratification of having done it yourself. This sentiment from Kitchen of Light, by Andreas Viestad, captures the heart behind the Scandinavian tradition of homemade gravlax so well:

“There is an intrinsic generosity to making gravlaks. In order to obtain the perfect result, you have to make at least two pounds or more of it, the ideal being to use two 3-pound fillets. That is more than a normal family of four would eat in a week or two, so in Scandinavia it is customary to invite guests to share it, or to give away some of it to friends and neighbors.”

I suggest serving homemade gravlax as part of a brunch or lunch spread with the traditional Scandinavian accompaniments: good rye bread and mustard sauce. You’ll be proud of your newfound skills in curing fish, and celebrate the accomplishment by sharing a meal with friends and family.

Recipe for Homemade Gravlax

Adapted from techniques I learned from Kitchen of Light, The New Scandinavian Cooking, by Andreas Viestad. If you’re interested in authentic Scandinavian cooking, this book is essential.

Ingredients

Two 1-pound salmon fillets, skin on
3 tablespoons kosher salt
1 ½ tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
2 tablespoons aquavit (optional)

Prepare the salmon fillets by using tweezers to remove the pin bones. These small, thin, spiky bones can be felt by running your fingers along the top of the fish. Pinch the end of a pin bone with the tweezers, push down gently on the flesh with your other hand, and pull the pin bone straight out. You may find as many as 20 pin bones in each fish fillet, but don’t be daunted by the task, it only takes a few minutes.

Place the salmon fillets skin side down in a non-reactive container (ceramic or a baking sheet lined in plastic wrap) with high sides to keep any juices released during curing from spilling from the container.

Apply the cure. Stir together the salt and sugar, then rub the mixture evenly over each salmon fillet. Sprinkle the chopped dill over the salmon, and pour 1 tablespoon aquavit over each fillet.

Place one of the salmon fillets skin side up on top of the other fillet. The salmon fillets will be touching flesh to flesh, each with the skin on the outside. Cover the stacked salmon fillets with plastic wrap and place a heavy weight atop the fish. A plate or baking tray weighed down with bags of flour works well. Put the salmon in the refrigerator to cure for 2 to 3 days, turning the fish every twelve hours. The gravlax is finished curing when it feels firm to the touch at the thickest part of the fillet.

Once the salmon has cured, gently wipe the cure off the top of the fillets. Use a long, narrow, flexible, sharp knife to remove the skin from each fillet. With the salmon skin side down, grab the tail end, pinching it with your thumb and fingers. If the skin is slippery, use a paper towel to grip it. Use the knife to slice between the skin and flesh. Keep the knife at an angle, pointed down towards the skin, and use a rocking motion to slice under the length of the fillet and remove the skin. Take your time and be patient, as removing skin from a fish fillet is delicate work, a skill that gets better with practice. Once the skin is removed, flip the fillet over and trim off any pieces of skin still left on the fish. After the skin is removed from both fillets, store them in the fridge, well wrapped, where they will keep for at least a week.

To serve, slice the salmon as thinly as possible by using a sharp knife to shave off pieces, cutting towards the tail end. Wrap any unused salmon and return it to the fridge.

Traditionally, gravlax is served with mustard-dill sauce and rye bread. It’s also delicious tossed in with boiled potatoes and dressed with a lemon vinaigrette, or atop a bagel with cream cheese and chives.

For my step-by-step photographs, click on the Food52 icon below.

Recipe for Mustard-Dill Sauce from Saveur

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