La Domestique | Kitchen Pantry Garden

Kosher Thanksgiving: Challah Stuffing with Mushrooms and Hazelnuts

By Jess On November 12, 2012 · 21 Comments

Kosher couldn’t be farther from the pulled pork sandwiches and steaks smothered in creamy sauces I grew up eating in Arkansas. So when I was asked to develop a Thanksgiving menu abiding by the laws of kashrut, I felt overwhelmed and intimidated. Growing up I didn’t know anyone who was Jewish, let alone kosher. Clueless as I was about this way of living, I knew it was more than a special diet. Setting out to create a kosher Thanksgiving, I had a lot of respect for Jewish culture and the importance of preparing food in their rituals. During my research I carefully studied the rules to keeping kosher: no mixing meat and dairy, only eat fish with fins and scales, pork and rabbit are prohibited, etc. I knew it was more than a bunch of rules, and to create kosher recipes that embraced Jewish cuisine I would have to really get to the root of the rituals. Why do Jews go to such lengths to keep keep kosher? It’s not just about what to eat, but how the food is prepared every step of the way, from slaughterhouse practice to kashering the home kitchen. Kashrut (following kosher laws) is a serious commitment for a household.

A day at the public library reading through every kosher cookbook I could get my hands on lead to better understanding of what exactly kosher laws are, where they come from, and how they are observed in the Jewish community. The Torah is a part of the Tenach (bible) and contains the commandments of Moses, which dictate basic kashrut. Over the years, Rabbis have expanded upon these laws. Also, not every affiliation of Judaism practice kashrut the same way, the Orthodox Jews being more strict than the Reform or Reconstructionist Jews. It seems that keeping kosher is a very personal decision, influenced by how an individual’s surrounding community interprets the writings of the Torah.

Reading How To Keep Kosher, by Lisë Stern, I experienced a lightbulb moment when I came across this excerpt:

My father also sees kashrut as part of the bigger picture of how to live life as a better person. “Keeping kosher is one of the many things we do that gives meaning to most of what we do,” he says… “I don’t think kashrut all by itself would do it, but since eating is such an important and integral part of life, you’re frequently brought back to thinking about what you’re doing from a religious point of view. It gives you a structure within which you can focus your attempts to be a better human being.”

When you are mindful of a routine and the meaning behind it, a change occurs, and routine becomes ritual. Ms. Stern writes that devoting yourself to kosher practice forces you to stop and consider what you eat, bringing the spiritual into a mundane physical activity. To Reform Jews, kashrut has expanded to take into account environmental impact of processing and packaging food , humane treatment of animals raised for food, and labor conditions of workers. Jewish or not, these are principles we can all agree on. The sentiment behind kashrut is similar to pillars of the slow food community:

Know where your food comes from and how it’s processed.
Wholesome food is not cheap. Pay a little more to fairly compensate workers, ensure produce is grown organically without the use of pesticides, and give animals a life with room to roam.
A meal is a sacred ritual to be prepared with love and shared with others.

Learning about what it means to be kosher has been a fascinating journey, reminding me of the ties that bind humanity in our aim to do what is right and just. What better time to renew our commitment to eating mindfully with respect for life and a heart of gratitude than Thanksgiving?

Challah Stuffing with Shiitake Mushrooms and Hazelnuts

An unstuffed turkey roasts faster than a stuffed one, and this quick-cooking “stuffing” baked in a shallow 9-by-13-inch dish is perfect to slide in the oven just as the turkey comes out. While the bird rests the stuffing turns golden and crisp after less than thirty minutes under the heat. Enriched with eggs and sugar, challah bread makes for a tender, delicious stuffing base. Sautéed shiitake mushrooms and toasted hazelnuts are the spirit of autumn and combine beautifully with a generous amount of sage and rosemary. Dotted throughout the stuffing, sweet dried apricots are a nice surprise to the palate. With its balance of earthy, herbal, sweet, and nutty flavors, this stuffing is unique and yet steeped in tradition.

serves 8

Ingredients

½ cup hazelnuts
3 tablespoons olive oil or schmaltz
1 onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
4 leeks, white and pale-green parts only, cut in half lengthwise then cut in ¼ inch slices
3 celery stalks, thinly sliced
10 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stems and caps sliced
1 cup dried apricots, chopped
1/3 cup chopped fresh sage
2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary
2 cups homemade chicken stock
1 egg
kosher salt
freshly ground pepper
14 ounces challah bread (enough to fill a 9-by-13-inch baking dish), cut into 1-inch cubes and left unwrapped on the counter overnight to go stale

Toast the hazelnuts. Heat the oven to 375°F. Spread the hazelnuts on a small baking sheet and toast until golden brown, about 8 minutes. Pour the nuts onto a plate to cool, and then rub off most of the skins with a paper towel. Coarsely chop the hazelnuts and store them in an airtight container until ready to use.

Make the stuffing. Heat the oven to 375°F. Place the challah bread cubes into a greased 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Set aside.

Pour 2 tablespoons olive oil or schmaltz into a large straight-sided skillet and turn the heat on medium. Add onion, garlic, leeks, and celery. Season the mixture with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally and monitoring the heat so the vegetables do not brown, until the onions are translucent and tender, about 6 minutes. Place the mixture in a bowl and set aside.

Add 1 tablespoon olive oil or schmaltz to the skillet and turn the heat to medium-high. Toss in the sliced shiitake mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, and sauté for a few minutes till tender. (Both the mushrooms and the mixture of onion, garlic, leeks, and celery may be refrigerated overnight.)

Pour the mushrooms over the challah cubes, along with the mixture of sautéed onion, garlic, leeks, and celery. Add the chopped hazelnuts, apricots, sage, and rosemary. Toss the ingredients together to combine evenly, and season with salt and pepper. Whisk together the egg and 1-½ cups chicken stock. Pour over the challah stuffing evenly to moisten the bread throughout. The goal is to use just enough liquid to moisten the stuffing without making it too soggy. Use the last ½ cup of chicken stock if needed. Allow the stuffing to stand 10 minutes, absorbing the liquid.

Bake the challah stuffing for 20-30 minutes, until heated through and golden crisp on top.

Pear, Cheddar, and Caramelized Onion Tart

By Jess On November 7, 2012 · 4 Comments

I’ve been busy in the test kitchen developing holiday entertaining recipes for a client, and today I’d like to share a savory tart with you. The components can be prepared ahead of time (the pastry pre-baked), later assembled and baked just before serving. High-quality puff pastry can be found in the freezer section of the grocery store, and bakes up into a flaky, buttery tart base. The toppings are a combination of four autumnal ingredients: slow-cooked caramelized onions for rich sweetness, thyme contributes a woodsy note, and Bosc pears, a baking fruit with crisp, juicy texture, combine beautifully with the nutty, sharp flavor of aged cheddar. Slice the tart into squares and serve it at casual gatherings with cocktails, beers, or mulled wine. It’s a delicious small bite that “tastes like more” as the husband would say.

To everyone on the East coast, you’re in our thoughts and prayers. We hope you stay safe and warm through this crazy snowstorm.

Pear, Cheddar, and Caramelized Onion Tart

Makes 1 tart, approximately 11-by-14 inches, which can be sliced into 12 squares

Ingredients

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 yellow onions
¼ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon sugar
1 sheet frozen (all butter) puff pastry (from a 14-ounce package), thawed according to package instructions
All-purpose flour, for dusting
1 ripe Bosc pear, peeled, cored, and chopped into ½- inch chunks
2 cups grated aged cheddar cheese (4 ounces)
2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves

Caramelize the onions. Melt the butter in a heavy pot or large, high-sided skillet. Prepare the onions by halving them lengthwise and then cutting into ¼ inch thick slices. Toss the onions into the pot with the salt and cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until they start to turn brown, about 10 minutes. Turn the heat down to medium and add the sugar. Monitor the pot, stirring occasionally to prevent the onions from burning while they caramelize. After about 20 minutes, the onions will take on a glazed appearance and turn dark brown in color. Remove the onions from the skillet and place on a plate to cool. The onions can be prepared ahead of time and refrigerated in an airtight container.

Bake the pastry. Heat the oven to 375°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Unwrap the puff pastry and unfold it on a floured work area. Working quickly (the high butter content of the pastry will begin to melt in a warm kitchen), gently roll out the pastry to an 11-by-16-inch rectangle (or to fit inside your baking sheet). Transfer the pastry to the baking sheet and prick all over with a fork, excluding a ½-inch border around the perimeter. Bake the pastry for 15-20 minutes, rotating the pan once, until golden brown and firm and dry to the touch. Check the pastry after five minutes baking in the oven. If it is puffed up, pierce with a fork to allow the steam to escape and continue baking. Once the pastry is finished baking, remove from the oven and allow to cool.

Assemble the tart. Scatter ½ cup cheese over the baked pastry, topped with the caramelized onions and then the pears. Sprinkle over the rest of the cheese as well as the thyme leaves. Bake the tart at 375°F for 10-15 minutes, until the cheese melts. Serve the tart warm, sliced into 12 squares.

Election Day Chicken Drumsticks

By Jess On November 5, 2012 · 8 Comments

Sweet and sour glazed chicken is a dish democrats and republicans can all agree on. Tuesday, November 6, our country will elect the next President of the United States of America. Many of us will gather, family and friends, to watch election coverage on television. There will be heated discussions over the dinner table and cheers (or tears) as results roll in. Pomegranate Glazed Chicken Drumsticks is a festive appetizer, perfect for serving a crowd. An economical finger food, drumsticks pair nicely with beer, cocktails, or a big bowl of party punch. Inspired by the technique from Giada De Laurentis’s Balsamic Chicken Drumettes, I created my own sweet and sticky glaze with the exotic flavor of pomegranate molasses. If you’ve never cooked with pomegranate molasses, it’s syrupy and tart, a reduced pomegranate juice found in the Middle Eastern section of large grocery stores. The combination of pomegranate molasses, orange juice, cinnamon, brown sugar, and garlic, makes for a deeply flavored, sweet, fruity, and gently spiced marinade that tenderizes and flavors the chicken, caramelizing deep golden brown and crisp in the oven.

This recipe is easy to throw together and mostly hands-off, which is great for entertaining guests. Simply marinate the chicken for a couple of hours, then roast it quickly in a blazing hot oven. Brush the caramelized drumsticks with extra sauce and sprinkle over pomegranate seeds for a festive and fruity finish. Pomegranate Glazed Chicken Drumsticks is a lip-smackingly good appetizer, guaranteed to be a hit at any celebration, from Election Day through the holiday season.

Remember, whatever the results on Election Day, we’ve all got something to celebrate: our freedom.

Pomegranate Glazed Chicken Drumsticks

serves 6 as an appetizer

Ingredients

¼ teaspoon sea salt
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
3 tablespoons brown sugar
1 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
½ cup pomegranate molasses
3 garlic cloves, smashed
12 skin-on chicken drumsticks
cooking spray or vegetable oil, for greasing the pan
Seeds from ½ a pomegranate

Make the marinade. In a medium bowl, stir together the salt, cinnamon, brown sugar, and orange juice. Whisk in the pomegranate molasses. Place the garlic cloves and chicken drumsticks in a 1-gallon plastic, re-sealable bag. Pour marinade into the bag. Push all the air out of the plastic bag and seal it. Put the bag of chicken into the refrigerator to marinate for 2 hours.

Cook the chicken. Heat the oven to 450°F. Line a baking sheet with foil and grease the foil with cooking spray or a teaspoon of vegetable oil to keep the chicken from sticking. Fit all twelve drumsticks on one large baking sheet with a little bit of space between each one. Roast the drumsticks for about 25 to 30 minutes, turning them once, until cooked through with an internal temperature of 160°F. The skin will be caramelized and dark.

While the drumsticks cook in the oven, make a sauce with the marinade. Remove the garlic cloves and pour the marinade into a small high-sided skillet. Bring to a boil (to destroy any bacteria), then turn down the heat and simmer until reduced and thickened, 10 to 15 minutes. Pour the thickened sauce into a bowl.

Upon removing the cooked chicken from the oven, brush with the reserved sauce and place the drumsticks on a platter. Sprinkle the chicken with pomegranate seeds and serve warm.

Halloween Barmbrack, an Irish Tradition

By Jess On October 29, 2012 · 13 Comments

Barmbrack – such a strange word to those of us who didn’t grow up in Ireland. Originating from the Gaelic language, bairín, is a reference to the yeast of fermented bear and breac, notes the speckled appearance of currants and golden raisins. This sweet bread is leavened with yeast, enriched with milk and butter, and infused with cinnamon and nutmeg. Tokens are wrapped in parchment, then folded into the bread dough to be discovered later when the bread is sliced. My Irish husband’s favorite Halloween memory is of gathering at the table with his family to slice into the barmbrack. Each token symbolizes a different prediction for the future. Find a ring in your slice and you’ll be married soon. The matchstick predicts an unhappy marriage. A pea foretells poverty, a coin, wealth. It’s great fun to see who gets what, laughing at the good and the bad (which is very Irish).

The bread is often baked in a loaf pan, but my husband prefers a round loaf (the way his mother made it). Recipes call for candied citrus peel, which I left out because it was never included in his mother’s barmbrack. When asked what makes a good and proper barmbrack, the husband replies, “a sweet bread with plenty of raisins and lots of air pockets.” The yeast in this recipe creates a light and airy dough, and time to rise in a warm kitchen develops flavor. This enriched bread keeps well, lasting about a week (if it’s not eaten before then). Serve barmbrack in thick slices slathered with butter. If it does go stale on you, Darina Allen suggests the slices make a wonderful Bread and Butter Pudding.

When the husband was growing up in Ireland, kids didn’t go trick-or-treating and they didn’t dress up in costumes for Halloween. He says that’s an American thing (read commercialized). Hearing his stories of simple family traditions like bobbing for apples and sharing the barmbrack on Halloween warms my heart. I remember the Halloweens of my childhood: Mom sewing the bones on my skeleton costume and creating my sister’s Raggedy Ann ensemble with red yarn. There was trick-or-treating in the neighborhood and parties with piñatas. The world seems much bigger now. I miss those simple times. And I wonder, will there be any trick-or-treaters at my door this year? I’ve optimistically picked up a bag of candy and will leave the light on just in case. In the meantime, I’ll be at the table with the husband nibbling on barmbrack with a cuppa tea. Happy Halloween!

What is your favorite Halloween tradition? Share it in the comments section. Click Here.

Halloween Barmbrack

recipe from Forgotten Skills of Cooking, by Darina Allen, makes two loaves

Ingredients

1 pound white bread flour
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon mixed spice
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
pinch of salt
2 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon active dry yeast + 1 teaspoon sugar + 1 teaspoon tepid milk
1/3 cup superfine sugar
1 cup tepid milk
1 organic egg, whisked
1 cup golden raisins
1/2 cup currants
2 oz. Candied peel

Find the full recipe here on the Irish Examiner website.

Cook in the Moment: Pumpkin Soup

By Jess On October 22, 2012 · 20 Comments

It’s been quiet here at La Domestique. I went home to Arkansas to stay with my sister and help with the baby while her husband was away. The day after I returned to Colorado, my husband surprised me with a spontaneous trip to Florida to celebrate our fifth anniversary. We had a relaxing time in the Florida Keys, then stopped off at Disney World (where the husband asked me to marry him six years ago) and Universal Studios for a little magic and roller coasters. While I love the nostalgia of the Magic Kingdom, visiting The Wizarding World of Harry Potter was my favorite. Ollivanders wand shop was just like in the movie, and we couldn’t resist walking away with a couple of magic wands (remember, the wand chooses the wizard). It was fun to leave the stresses of the adult world at the door and just be a kid again with my husband.

Now we’re back home and back to work. I’m developing and photographing recipes in preparation for the holiday season, so you can look forward to a lot of inspiration during the next few weeks. Today I’ve got a recipe for Pumpkin Soup to share that’s fitting for a weeknight supper or the Thanksgiving table. While developing this recipe, I experimented with a few different varieties of pumpkin, but ended up back with the tried and true pie pumpkin (also called a sugar pumpkin). The pie pumpkin just tasted the most pumpkin-y.

Pumpkin Soup

Serves 4 in a standard soup bowl or 8-10 in a small cup as an amuse-bouche to begin the meal.

Pureed pumpkin soup is a simple yet elegant appetizer to start off Thanksgiving dinner. This low maintenance dish can be made ahead of time, then heated up in the crockpot on Thanksgiving Day, freeing up valuable space on the stovetop. For this recipe the flavor of pumpkin shines, supported by a hint of savory sage and roasted garlic, balanced with sweet apple and a touch of honey. Choose a flavorful apple with a hint of tartness, such as the Jonagold or Gala variety. Roasting the pumpkin caramelizes the flesh and intensifies its flavor. Homemade chicken stock enriches the soup, but water or vegetable stock may be used instead to keep the dish vegetarian. A garnish of toasted hazelnuts adds a nice crunchy texture to the silky soup, and hazelnut oil boosts the nut flavor, combining beautifully with sweet pumpkin.

Ingredients

½ cup hazelnuts
2 sugar pumpkins, weighing about 2 pounds each
3 tablespoons olive oil
6 sage leaves
3 cloves garlic, unpeeled
kosher salt
freshly ground pepper
1 onion, chopped
1 apple, peeled, cored, and chopped
2-3 cups homemade chicken stock, vegetable stock, or water
1 tablespoon honey
hazelnut oil

Roast the pumpkins. Heat the oven to 400°F. Split the pumpkins in half vertically, from stem end to the base, and scoop out the seeds and pith. Slather the cut sides with 2 tablespoons olive oil and season generously with salt and pepper. Place the pumpkin halves on a baking sheet lined with foil, cut side down. Slip a sage leaf underneath each pumpkin. Place each of the garlic cloves under a pumpkin. Roast in the oven until tender, about 30- 40 minutes. The flesh should pierce easily with a blunt knife. Allow the pumpkin halves to cool for a few minutes, and then scoop out the flesh with a spoon, discarding the skin and the sage leaves.

Warm 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed soup pot set to medium heat. Add the apple and onion. Season the mixture with salt and pepper, then cook until the onions are softened and translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir occasionally and lower the heat if necessary. Do not allow the mixture to brown. Add the pumpkin flesh and 2 cloves of the roasted garlic, squeezed from the skin (discard the third clove of garlic). Pour over enough stock or water to just cover, about 2 cups. Break up the pumpkin into smaller pieces with a wooden spoon. Bring the soup to a boil, then simmer, partially covered, until all the ingredients are tender enough to mash with a wooden spoon, about 15 minutes.

Puree the soup. A blender will yield the smoothest, silkiest consistency, however, a food processor or immersion blender may also be used with good results. If using a blender, puree the soup in batches, only filling the container halfway with soup and covering the top with a towel while blending to prevent scalding from splashing soup. After blending, thin the soup with extra stock or water as needed, blending again until the desired texture is achieved. Pour the soup into a clean pot and heat until warmed through. Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper to taste. Stir in the honey.

Serve the pumpkin soup warm, garnished with a sprinkling of chopped hazelnuts and a drizzle of hazelnut oil.

Pumpkin soup can be stored in the refrigerator, covered, for about 2 days or frozen for a couple of months. Extra water or chicken stock may be needed to thin the soup during reheating.

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