La Domestique and Wild Sockeye Salmon Fillets (c)2012 LaDomestique.com

This week at la Domestique we’re cooking with wild salmon, fresh from the ice cold waters of the north Pacific. Wild salmon season begins in May, when the fish leave the ocean, returning to rivers to spawn. In preparation for this journey, the salmon have fattened up and their flesh is at its tastiest. The season for wild salmon lasts all summer, through September. Due to issues like overfishing, habitat destruction, and environmental impacts of farming salmon, it’s best to stick with Wild Alaskan Salmon, which the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch labels as Best Choice.

There are five species of wild Alaska salmon:

King (Chinook)
Oil content and flavor are directly related in salmon, and the King is famous for its high oil content. With a firm flesh and rich flavor, the King is well-suited to cooking on the grill.

Sockeye (Red)
Sockeye salmon are smaller and leaner than the mighty King, with an intense, bright red flesh. The flavor of sockeye is fresh and clean, making this species popular for sushi or salt-curing (gravlax).

Coho (Silver)
Averaging between 6-12 pounds, Coho salmon is mild in flavor and displays a light pink flesh.

Keta (Chum)
The Keta salmon is low in oil content and has the firmest flesh of all the salmon species. Its flavor is mild and this fish needs to be cooked gently, quickly poached in stock or en papillote (roasted in a parchment paper bag with plenty of olive oil and citrus slices for moisture).

Pink (Humpy)
The smallest of the Pacific salmon, weighing in at 3-5 pounds, it’s also the most abundant. The flesh of Pink salmon is mildly sweet and low in fat, best cooked whole in a moderate oven or gently seared in a hot skillet.

When buying salmon, take a look at what your fishmonger has to offer and compare prices. At any given time throughout the summer, you’ll find wild Alaska King, Sockeye, and Coho, and their prices will fluctuate throughout the season. Look for specimens with bright, firm, moist flesh. The salmon should smell clean, of the water, never fishy. Whole fish should have clear eyes and bright red gills. Learn what day your fishmonger gets his shipment of fresh fish, and make a routine of buying from him (or her) on that day.

Salmon can be found whole, as a fillet, or as u-shaped steaks. Though the fish is usually boned by the fishmonger, it’s important to run your fingers over the flesh and check for pin bones, which you can remove with tweezers. It’s best to cook salmon the same day you buy it. I like to fill a shallow bowl with ice, cover it with plastic wrap, and place the fish on top, then cover the whole thing in plastic wrap and store it in the fridge.

Fresh wild Alaskan salmon is something to be prepared simply, with care, allowing the fish’s inherent flavor to shine. Tomorrow is 10 Ways Tuesday at la Domestique, and you’ll find many creative ways to cook with salmon during summer. Don’t let the season pass you by without celebrating salmon in your kitchen.

Do you enjoy salmon during summer? Share your favorite species to cook with, as well as your tips, in the comments section. Click Here.

Grilled Squid with Tomatoes and Basil (c)2012 LaDomestique.com

This year more than any other, I’ve been reveling in summer. Time passes so quickly, it’s easy to blink your eyes and realize you’ve let a whole season go by without stopping to enjoy it. I’ve been working hard and playing hard lately. After working through the weekend trying to meet deadlines, I decided to spend an hour this afternoon lying by the pool, just to remind myself it is summer, after all. It’s important to do that, you know. To stop, to slow things down a bit and take a look around, savoring the season. Don’t take it for granted that you’re going to get another summer. Life is so fragile.

la Domestique savoring summer (c)2012 LaDomestique.com

Photo above taken by photographer James Anderson

I’ve made a little list of what summer is to me, and I would love for you to share what summer is to you in the comments section.

Summer is…

bubbly wine

weekend getaways

fruit pies & tarts

dining alfresco at home

trips to the farmer’s market on Saturdays

watching Le Tour de France with the husband

lying by the pool with friends, eating popsicles

the aroma of fresh basil in pesto and mint in my mojito

going to concerts at the most beautiful outdoor venue in the world

And summer is seafood. This recipe for Grilled Squid with Tomatoes and Basil is a perfect summer meal: light, fresh, colorful, and full of flavor. I’m a big fan of squid- the sweet, ocean flavor is so delicate. Squid should either be seared hot and fast or braised low and slow, as anything in between will leave it rubbery. For the recipe below, I chose to grill the squid, slicing the charred pieces into rings and tossing them with sautéed cherry tomatoes, basil, garlic, and crushed red chile pepper. Serve Grilled Squid with Tomatoes and Basil as an appetizer or tapas dish with crusty bread for sopping up the juices, or toss it with pasta for a light supper.

I hope you’re having a wonderful summer filled with small adventures and simple pleasures. Don’t let the season pass you by without stopping to truly savor it.

Grilled Squid with Tomatoes and Basil (c)2012 LaDomestique.com

Recipe for Grilled Squid with Tomatoes and Basil

serves 4 as an appetizer

Ingredients
  • 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon olive oil
  • 3/4 pound baby squid bodies, no tentacles
  • 1 clove garlic, crushed
  • 12 ounces cherry tomatoes
  • 1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper
  • 2 teaspoons sherry vinegar
  • a handful of basil leaves, torn into bite size pieces
  • sea salt
  • freshly ground pepper

Ingredients for Grilled Squid with Tomatoes and Basil (c)2012 LaDomestique.com

Prepare the cherry tomatoes by washing and then patting them dry. Slice half of the cherry tomatoes in half, leaving the others whole.

Heat a grill on high. Prepare the squid by patting them dry and then pouring over 1 teaspoon olive oil to keep them from sticking to the grill. Season the squid generously with sea salt. Place the squid on the grill and cook for just 1-2 minutes, until nicely charred, then flip to cook the other side. The squid will be firm and finished cooking in no longer than 4 minutes. Remove the squid from the grill and set aside to cool.

Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet on medium. Once the oil is hot (but not smoking) add the crushed garlic and cook for 1 minute, allowing the garlic to infuse the oil with flavor. Do not allow the garlic to turn brown, adjusting the heat as necessary. Toss in all the cherry tomatoes and season with a couple pinches of salt and freshly ground pepper. Sauté the tomatoes for about 3 minutes, until the whole ones wrinkle in their skins and the halved slices begin releasing their juices. While the cherry tomatoes are cooking, slice the squid into 1/4 inch rings and then add the squid to the tomatoes, cooking just long enough to heat through, no longer than 1 minute.

Transfer the tomato and squid mixture into a bowl and pour over the sherry vinegar. Add the basil and toss the mixture well. Serve in 4 bowls with crusty bread for sopping up the juices.

Prop Details:

The beautiful bowl I used to serve the grilled squid (as well as the tiny finger bowls) was handmade by the talented designer and ceramicist, Teresa Chang of Teresa Chang Ceramics. It is called the Wet Grass Bread Bowl.

Grilled Squid with Tomatoes and Basil (c)2012 LaDomestique.com

 

 

Panzanella (c)2012 LaDomestique.com

Today I join Food Bloggers for Slave Free Tomatoes in an effort to raise awareness about injustices in U.S. tomato fields and to gain support for the Fair Food Program, which asks supermarkets and restaurants to pay a small price increase for fairly harvested tomatoes. It may surprise you that slavery exists here in the United States, where Chief Assistant U.S. Attorney Douglas Molloy once called Florida’s tomato fields “ground zero” for modern-day slavery. In the past 15 years, over 1,000 people have been freed from slavery in U.S. tomato fields.

Recipe for Change is a campaign led by the International Justice Mission targeting three major supermarket chains: Ahold, Publix, and Krogers. We are asking these companies to support the Fair Food Program and promise to shift purchases to the Florida tomato growers who abide by these higher standards. Whole Foods and Trader Joe’s have already made the pledge to sell slave-free tomatoes.

What can you do?

Supermarkets can help eliminate slavery and other serious abuses from the tomato supply chain when they join the Fair Food Program. But in order to change their policies, CEOs need pressure from consumers.
Take 30 seconds, raise your voice, and sign your name to help ensure that supermarket tomatoes are slave-free!

Panzanella (c)2012 LaDomestique.com

I’ve got creative recipes for cooking with summer tomatoes:

1.  Panzanella

Panzanella is an Italian salad made with pieces of day old bread, tomatoes, basil, and onions, then dressed in olive oil and vinegar. I like to keep panzanella simple. To make it for one, drizzle a couple of pieces of country-style bread with olive oil and char them on the grill. Rub the grilled bread with a raw garlic clove and tear the bread up into small pieces. Toss with the ripest, juiciest tomatoes you can find and plenty of fresh basil. Drizzle over a splash of red wine vinegar and plenty of extra-virgin olive oil. Sprinkle with sea salt and freshly ground pepper, then let the panzanella marinate for 5-10 minutes. To me, this rustic meal is summer on a plate. Enjoy it for lunch, or make a generous platter of panzanella and serve it al fresco with good friends and a bottle of wine.

2.  Sautéed Cherry Tomatoes

I’m obsessed with sautéed cherry tomatoes. They are piping hot and bursting with sweet and tart juices, a flavor bomb that will turn any pantry supper into something spectacular. Pour a splash of olive oil into a screaming hot stainless steel skillet, then add a clove of crushed garlic and a pint of cherry tomatoes (half of them sliced in half, the others left whole). Sprinkle over a generous handful of fresh thyme leaves and and toss the tomatoes around in the hot skillet for a few minutes, until the whole ones are blistered and the halves release their beautiful juices. Serve the sautéed cherry tomatoes as a side to roast chicken or make it a pantry supper with cooked pasta and goat cheese. Try this dish of Sautéed Cherry Tomatoes with Sea Bass, Black Quinoa, and Salsa Verde. Toss in some shrimp and serve over rice or couscous. Use sautéed cherry tomatoes to boost flavor in weeknight suppers- they’re sure to be a big hit.

3.  Tomato Preserves

Reading Rachel Saunders’ words on tomato preserves in The Blue Chair Jam Cookbook makes me want to pull out my big canning pot and get jammin’ immediately. Her Early Girl Tomato Marmalade recipe is exotic and sophisticated, flavored with oranges, cinnamon, and saffron. She writes, “Tomato marmalades are the perfect partners for crackers cornbread, or sourdough. They have a long history in the United States…” The accompanying photograph of a spoonful of the tomato marmalade atop a cracker spread with cheese is so enticing I can hardly stand it.

4.  Tomato & Grilled Corn Salad with Smoked Sea Salt

This dish of Tomato & Grilled Corn Salad with Smoked Sea Salt looks stunning on a platter and is quick and easy to throw together for feeding a crowd. The idea is to find as many different varieties of tomato as possible, slice them in different shapes and sizes, then scatter the tomatoes artfully over a platter with char-grilled sweet corn and queso fresco. Sliced scallions add fresh flavor while smoked salt gives the salad depth and lime zest lends a floral note. A simple lime vinaigrette lets the flavors of the individual ingredients shine.

5.  Hot and Sour Tomato Broth with Shrimp

Padma Lakshmi’s cookbook, Tangy Tart Hot & Sweet, is quickly becoming a favorite of mine. I love her global way of cooking and South Indian roots. Her recipe for Hot and Sour Tomato Broth with Shrimp is a variation on a traditional South Indian soup called rasam that she grew up with. Padma writes, “It still remains quite a light soup, and it’s sure to cure you of all your ailments.” I would say the depth and complexity of this soup flavored with a long list of spices (black mustard seeds, fenugreek seeds, cumin seeds, curry leaves, asafetida powder, chilies, and curry powder) is enough to make you forget your ailments indefinitely.

6.  Pissaladière

A bread decorated like a pizza sans sauce, pissaladière, is a specialty of southern France. A few years ago I traveled through France, and the aroma of fresh thyme atop piping hot bread with slices of tomato, caramelized onions, olives, and anchovy will be forever imprinted in my mind. Last summer I cooked pissaladière on the blog, and found it to be one of those simple, easy recipes that is so good you can’t believe it.

7.  Stuffed Tomatoes

Stuffed tomatoes are elegant and bring a sense of special-ness to the dinner table. I prefer them heavy with herbs and briny olives, topped with crispy breadcrumbs rather than full of cheese. Yotam Ottolenghi’s recipe for Herb-Stuffed Tomatoes from Plenty is just my style. Tomatoes are hollowed out and stuffed with a mixture of garlic, olives, onion, panko, capers, and plenty of fresh herbs like oregano, parsley, and mint. The stuffed tomatoes are then drizzled in olive oil and baked in a 325 degrees Fahrenheit oven for half an hour until soft and warm throughout.

8.  Tomatoes and Hearty Grains

One of my favorite summer meals is a combination of tart and explosively juicy tomato with chewy, nutty grains- wheat berries being my go to. I like to make a hearty grain salad instead of pasta salad. Cook the wheat berries and toss them with tomatoes, miniature mozzarella balls, fresh herbs, and balsamic vinaigrette. Season with sea salt and plenty of freshly ground black pepper. Tomato and wheat berry salad is great picnic food. It’s healthy and nourishing, leaving you fueled for whatever adventure lies ahead.

9.  Golden Tomato Gazpacho

I love so many things about this recipe for Yellow and Orange Tomato Gazpacho by Martha Stewart. First, the sunny color. Grated yellow and orange tomatoes lend the gazpacho a chunky texture as well as bright acidity. No need for a food processor or blender, which is great because I own neither. Chunks of grape tomatoes add sweetness and cucumber, freshness. She uses both red wine vinegar and sherry vinegar for depth and garnishes the gazpacho with crumbled hard-boiled eggs and serrano ham. This meal has supper on the porch written all over it.

10.  Tomato Frittata

Ever since I discovered the ease of a rustic frittata I can’t stope making them with whatever seasonal veg I’ve got on the kitchen counter. A frittata is an Italian omelet made by pouring whisked eggs over into the skillet over vegetables and finishing in a hot oven, baking a few minutes until puffed and golden. Sliced red tomatoes make for a striking presentation in this frittata from Bon Appétit. Make a tomato frittata your own by getting creative with the herbs and cheese you use to accent the tomatoes and their bright, sunny flavor.

What is your favorite way to cook with tomatoes during summer? Share it in the comments section. Click Here.

 

Heirloom Tomatoes (c)2012 LaDomestique.com

I’ve been waiting, worrying, pestering the farmers at the Boulder Farmer’s Market. “You ARE going to have tomatoes this year, right? Is it time yet? Maybe next week?” With our fickle weather and short growing season, you never know – some years tomatoes are abundant, other years there are none at all. Blame it on a late snowstorm in May, not enough sun, too much sun, too wet, too dry, pestilence, or even bad luck. It’s too early to know what tomato season will look like here in Colorado, but I’ve seen the first heirlooms from Red Wagon Farm with the promise of more to come from one of the workers at Cure Organic Farm, and I’m pretty darned excited about it.

Supermarket tomatoes sold year-round are nothing like the tomatoes of summer, with their juicy flesh, sun-ripened sweetness, and seductive aroma. A summer tomato is bursting with life. In Tender, Nigel Slater writes, “I find the scent of a ripe tomato, especially that of its stem, faintly erotic.” A ripe tomato is heavy for its size, voluptuous, gives slightly under the embrace of your hand… A ripe tomato brings out the greed in us, the desire to possess, and it’s all too easy to get caught up in a tomato-induced fervor, only to return home with more than we could possibly eat. Alice Waters understands human nature, and addresses this issue in Chez Panisse, advising “If you find yourself with too many ripe tomatoes at once, make them into a quick sauce.” Tomorrow is 10 Ways Tuesday, and you’ll find plenty mouthwatering recipes for cooking with tomatoes during summer.

Enjoying your own hand-picked tomatoes fresh from the garden is possible for anyone provided you’ve got a sunny spot. Tomatoes don’t need a spacious garden, and will happily produce fruit when grown in a container on a warm and sunny apartment balcony. They take a long time to mature and produce fruit, so it’s best to start with a small store-bought plant, rather than sowing seeds. If you live in a shady apartment with little sun like I do, the farmer’s market is the place to find freshly harvested tomatoes grown locally. The delicate tomato was not built for long-distance travel, and big agriculture has bred tomatoes with thick skins to withstand cross-country trips without bruising, resulting in a uniformly red product that’s devoid of flavor and life. Part of the joy of summer tomatoes is in the ugly heirlooms, with their freakish, irregularly-shaped bodies cloaked in colors ranging from green to gold to blushing pink. Many varieties of tomatoes can be found, from tiny cherry tomatoes (and even tinier currant tomatoes) to grande beefsteaks, and I encourage you to try them all.

Carefully carry them home and store the tomatoes in a single layer on the countertop at cool room temperature. Never store tomatoes in the fridge, which nullifies their flavor and turns their texture mealy. Reading Chez Panisse Vegetables, I learned that a good tomato doesn’t have to be vine ripened. Alice Waters suggests that a tomato should be picked just as it starts to change from orange to red, and then left to ripen indoors at room temperature for a few days. The theory is that if a tomato is left to ripen on the vine, its sugars peak and start to dissipate before the fruit is even harvested. Allowing tomatoes to ripen on your counter yields a sweeter, more flavorful fruit.

Tomatoes are the ingredient of the week at la Domestique, where we’ll be sharing fresh inspiration for cooking with this harbinger of summer. Eating a perfectly ripe tomato sprinkled with sea salt and drizzled with olive oil is pure joy, but we also love them in salads, pastas, pizzas, egg dishes, and salsas. The wait is over, tomato season is officially here!

Do you have a favorite variety of tomato? Tell us about it in the comments section. Click Here.

 

Rouille with Frites (c)2012 LaDomestique.com

Garlic week at la Domestique has certainly been, well, pungent. I poured through my cookbook collection looking for fresh and interesting recipes with the goal of truly celebrating this stinky bulb in all its glory. Each day the husband arrived home from work to be greeted at the door not by my smiling face, but by the heady aroma of garlic wafting from the kitchen as I tested recipes. This morning I woke up with the taste of garlic still lingering on my palate. You can probably smell me coming a mile away. That’s ok with me. I’ve long ago surrendered to the idea that my perfume is not Chanel No. 5, rather, it’s the story of time spent in my favorite place – the kitchen. Some days it’s garlic, others cinnamon, always memorable and unmistakably me.

It’s almost impossible to imagine NOT cooking with garlic. A crushed garlic clove seems to be the base for just about any savory recipe: soups, stews, pasta sauces, etc. We’re more hesitant to cook recipes calling for raw garlic. Is it because we’ve been turned off by the acidic, bitter flavor of perpetually available garlic in the grocery store? Is it because we’re afraid to be bold, to offend guests with the brashness of raw garlic? Our fear of using aggressive flavors in the kitchen is a metaphor for how we live our lives: trying to be normal, to fit in, to be liked by everyone. In our efforts not to upset the herd we can become blander versions of ourselves, even boring. Listening to The Avett Brothers’ album, Four Thieves Gone, I’m encouraged to live a little bolder when they sing, “Be loud, let your colors show!”

During this season of summer, when garlic is freshly harvested and at its peak in terms of flavor, I encourage you to let a little boldness into your kitchen. Who knows what will happen? Maybe someone won’t like it? Maybe someone will LOVE it. One thing’s for sure, it will be memorable, flavorful, complicated, interesting… and this spirit of boldness might just escape from your kitchen and infiltrate your life.

Aïoli is a French recipe for mayonnaise flavored with a handful of pungent raw garlic cloves. In an effort to be bold, I’ve made aïoli’s spicy sister, Rouille, a garlic mayonnaise spiked with ground cayenne pepper and saffron. I researched many recipes for rouille, a traditional accompaniment to bouillabaisse (the French seafood stew), before I settled on a rouille from Patricia Wells’ At Home in Provence. I like her recipe because it doesn’t reinvent the wheel. Just like with aïoli, raw garlic cloves are pounded in a mortar and pestle with salt to form a paste, a couple egg yolks are added, and extra-virgin olive oil is worked in until the mixture is thick and emulsified. A generous (if not dangerous!) 1/4 teaspoon fiery cayenne pepper, along with a pinch of saffron threads is what makes the aïoli a rouille. Other recipes for rouille that I came across used bread as a thickener or wimped out on the garlic (calling for 2 cloves rather than Patricia Wells’ demand for 6). Patricia Wells’ recipe for rouille is wildly pungent with all that fresh garlic. It’s got a serious kick from the cayenne, balanced by the exotic flavor of saffron. The first taste is a little overwhelming, but after a couple of bites the fire subsides and the rouille becomes strangely addictive. Homemade French fries, crisp and salty, are a perfect match for the rouille. Serve this snack with a couple of cold beers or a bottle of crisp sparkling rosé wine. Here’s to the bold, the flavorful, the memorable!

Rouille (c)2012 LaDomestique.com

Recipes

Rouille

The recipe for rouille comes from Patricia Wells at Home in Provence. It is not published online, but I did find her aïoli recipe here. All you need to do is add cayenne and saffron to taste. I always start aïoli in the mortar and pestle, then use a whisk to add in the oil to keep the emulsion from breaking. If your aïoli breaks, slowly whisk in another egg yolk to bring it back together.

Frites

Making French fries at home is easy and way tastier than eating out- you get to enjoy the fries piping hot! In the Martha Stewart’s Cooking School book, you’ll find a photographed, step-by-step tutorial on how to make perfect french fries. You can also find her technique for cooking French Fries here. Take note, in the book Martha instructs to soak the fries in water for at least 4 hours but up to 24 hours before frying.

Ingredients for Rouille (c)2012 LaDomestique.com